Journal of Clinical and Investigative Dermatology

Research Article

In Search of an Innovative Agent for Skin Care - Putting an Ancient Herbal Cosmetic Formula on Modern Bioactivity Testing Platforms

Elaine WAT1,2 Wing Sum SIU1,2 , Helen Yau Tsz CHAN1,2 ,Tiffany Hoi Ka TSO1,2 , Hon Wai LAW1,2, , Ken CHAN1,2, , Chun Wai WONG1,2 , Yan Ping WANG1,2 , Chun Hay KOv,Raymond HU3 , Eric Xing GUO3 , Clara Bik San LAU1,2, , and Ping Chung LEUNG1,2*

1Institute of Chinese Medicine, The Chinese University of Hong Kong, Shatin, New Territories, Hong Kong. 2State Key Laboratory for Research on Bioactivities and Clinical Application of Medicinal Plants, The Chinese University of Hong Kong, Shatin, New Territories, Hong Kong. 3 5100 Cosmetic Company Limited, 130A, Kwan Tei North Village, Fanling, New Territories, Hong Kong.
*Address for Correspondence Leung PC, Director, Centre for Clinical Trials on Chinese Medicine(CCTCM), The Chinese University of Hong Kong, Shatin, New Territories, Hong Kong, Tel: 852-2252 8868, Fax: 852- 2632 5441; E-mail: pingcleung@cuhk.edu.hk
Submission: 11 April, 2019. Accepted: 17 May, 2019. Published: 20 May, 2019.
Copyright: © 2019 Wat E, et al. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

Abstract

1.1.Backgroud: Qi Bai San (QBS) is a traditional Chinese herbal formula used by ancient ladies for healthy skin and whitening. Nevertheless, it contains undesirable animal and toxic herbs, without scientific evidence demonstrating its efficacy.
1.2.Objective: This study aims to compare and identify QBS formula with the best efficacy from three different versions of QBS formulations, F1, F2, and F3.
1.3.Methods: Cellular melanogenesis and tyrosinase activity assays were used to assess melanin content and tyrosinase activity on α-melanocytestimulating hormone (MSH)- induced B16 cells. Collagenase inhibition assay was used to compare the collagenase inhibitory activity. Effects of QBS on melanin production was determined using UV- irradiated Balb/c mice. Transdermal experiment was used to confirm whether QBS could penetrate into the skin. in vitro skin toxicity test study was performed to determine whether QBS would cause toxicity to skin cells.
1.4. Results: F1, F2 and F3 dose-dependently reduced α-MSH-induced increase in melanin content and tyrosinase activity, and inhibited collagenase activity. F3 is the simplest formula among all formulations (without animal or toxic herbs), yet demonstrating similar efficacy. Animal study suggested F3 could reduce melanocytes and melanin content in UVirradiated mice. Further penetration and skin toxicity studies suggested markers from different herbs within F3 could penetrate through the epidermis to exhibit its effects, without causing toxicity to skin cells.
1.5. Conclusion: We showed for the first time that a modified QBS formula exert hypopigmentation and collagenase inhibitory effects, providing in vitro and in vivo scientific evidence supporting its efficacy on hypopigmentation and healthy skin promotion.